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Nihon to Nihongo (On Japan and the Japanese language)

On arriving in Japan our first journey was to travel several hundred miles north from Tokyo on the overnight bus to Yamagata. My first discovery was that I was no longer a crazy student prepared to rough it to save a few quid, and the cheap option of the overnight bus was not proving a good decision! They are not designed for men in their 30s over 6 foot tall.

Yamagata is a prefecture located in the northerly Tōhoku region on Honshu Island. It borders the Miyagi region, which suffered a horrendous ordeal during the 2011 Asian Tsunami.

We arrived around 6am to be met by freezing temperatures and about a foot of snow. Had we packed right? My flip-flops and shorts were not providing much comfort at this point. Luckily we were welcomed in Yamagata by old friends, who quickly made us feel at home.

The reason we had journeyed North to Yamagata was to meet Kyoko and Adachi-san. They had been a couple that Beth had spent a year living with when she worked in Japan. (If she ever decides to write a book it will certainly blow your mind). Life’s accidental twists and turns can be both so brutal and beautiful. They are very close to this day more than 13 years later.

I remember Adachi-san telling me that his favourite part of the day was returning from work, opening a can of lager and watching the football. He was an avid Yamagata Montedio (J2 team) fan. I was discovering that life really wasn’t much different on the other side of the world!

For me, most importantly they were Beth’s friends, great hosts and I could not have asked for a better start to my new adventure. Oh, and they spoke good eigo (English) as well, which helped. Today I am honoured to call them my friends too.

But then things started to get a whole lot trickier when we left the comfort of their home and headed out into the big wide world in Kyoto…

….Arriving in Kyoto

“The beginning of knowledge is the discovery of something we do not understand.” – Frank Herbert

For those of you who have never been to Japan, I cannot recommend a more beautiful or diverse place. It is a wonderful experience. However, it isn’t without its fear factor, mainly the language. I was not expecting the impact being essentially illiterate would have on me.

I am ashamed to say that in the first couple of weeks in Kyoto I wanted to find the quickest exit out (but couldn’t read the signs…) I was completely overwhelmed by road signs, menus, instructions and advice in a language so different to our Roman alphabet that it could be left by an alien race.

I could not believe how dependent I became on Beth. A new start was all well and good but I felt like a child again, unable to fend for myself, and I did not like it. I could not wait for school to begin so I could start to get to grips with the language.

We arrived in Kyoto and settled into our new apartment quickly. It didn’t take long to furnish our 12 square metres. A small rice cooker, two bowls and some chopsticks, done!

I had two weeks to get accustomed to my new surroundings before school was to start. Right then. What was I going to do now I have all this free time? I sat for minutes in front of Google thinking what should I type in and then I suddenly realized that I should get up and go outside! Why did I think I was going to find my answers generated by a search engine? What was I thinking? I don’t even like computers that much.

I soon discovered all the simple pleasures that Kyoto had to offer and there were plenty. Bike riding through the temples (in fact cycling anywhere), exploring weird and wonderful places, exercising by the river, reading, cafes and restaurants, onigiris (rice balls stuffed with things like tuna and wrapped in seaweed), Starbuck’s caramel frappucinos (a new one for me) and most importantly loads of free time!

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes.” – Marcel Proust 

One of the beauties of Kyoto was getting under its skin and understanding Japanese life (which can take time).  Kyoto was a maze of streets consisting of houses, restaurants, shops and cafes.

Peeking behind the norens offers a world of discovery as you find small family businesses tucked away in wooden buildings selling everything from calligraphy brushes to kimonos to pots and pans.

 “You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation.” – Plato

One particular Friday afternoon will always stay in my mind. School had just finished, the heavens had opened and the rain was cascading down the busy rooves. I took off my trainers, placed them in my bag and set off home on my bike, barefoot. Within seconds I was soaked. The ride lasted approximately 20 minutes. I loved every single moment of it.

I felt cool, alive, young and free. At the few places along the route where I had to stop for traffic lights, feeling the warm tarmac under my bare feet was very relaxing and such a unique feeling.

We can’t feel like this all the time but we have to give our lives the opportunity to present such experiences. It was Kyoto in all of her majesty. The rain felt purifying as if it was washing away every care and worry I may have had. I spent the whole journey just laughing out loud all on my own. I felt like a ten year old playing outside. Priceless!

When was the last time you discovered your inner child?

Today just do something just for fun. You might enjoy it, and perhaps find out something new about yourself!

Until next time…

Mr K